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The first sizeable swell of Autumn lasted just long enough for the seasoned local crew to get on a few. These guys earn respect and deserve the pick of waves after decades of surfing here in all conditions. However, the line up is under significant pressure. Growing numbers blow in many to a car when it's on (thanks to internet forecasts laying it all out for them, and a top 100 ranking in a popular surf magazine). They paddle out irrespective of the crowd and consistency, with shiny logos from McBrand super stores, push inside, hassle, ruin the vibe, and show no respect. In other parts of the world you have to introduce yourself before surfing a break, and then if you are polite and respectful be content to sit inside and take the left overs. We've surfed here for 20 years and lived here for 10 years. Yet we understand our spot in the pecking order is rightfully still way down the line. Locals here are realising they have been friendly for too long. Take note.
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